Improvement in weaving corsets



e I' UNITED STATES PATENT OEEICE. 7

B. J. GOULLIOUD, OF PARIS, FRANCE, ASSIGNOR TO SOLOMON AND ADOLFH OTTENHEIMER, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

IMPROVEMENT IN WEAVING CORSETS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 37,546, dated January 27, 1863.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, BENor JOSEPH GoUL- LIOUD, of Paris, in the Empire of France, have invented, made, and applied to use a certain new and useful Improvement in Means for Weaving Corsets and Similar Articles; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full,

clear, and exact description of my said invendepressed that the weaving will only take place at one side, and that a gore or gusset shape can be formed in the fabric, and then a gore or gusset can be woven on the other side of the fabric, or the weaving can take place all across the fabric. When the weaving is only one side of the fabric, the ordinary shuttle would leave a loose -thread in its travel across the warps, that are stationary, because the shuttle would not travel sufficiently beyond the side where the weaving was being performed to draw up the slack thread left on the side where the weavin g was not being performed.

The nature of my said invention consists in a peculiar lay and shuttle-boxes combined with a shuttle that delivers its thread at or near one end, and is ,in length about one-third of the breadth of the lay, whereby I am enabled to weave gussets or gores without any slack thread being left, because the length of the shuttle bears such a relation to the entire breadth of the lay that little or no thread will be drawn ofi the bobbin when the shuttle is thrown in one direction. Hence the weaving can be at one edge only of the fabric to form a gore or gusset, or the weaving may be all across the fabric.

In the drawing, A B represents the warp of the fabric being woven. c d is the shuttlebox at one side, and ef the shuttle-box at the other side. gh is the shuttle. I have shown the same as formed with two mortises or openings for the reception of the bobbin or cop. The red line represents the weft or filling thread.

The shuttle is to be propelled as usual, and the shuttle-boxes are formed in any wellknown manner. The length, however, of the shuttle and of each shuttle-box is about onethird of the entire breadth ot the lay, so that the shuttle itself will reach from one box to the other, or nearly so. The filling-thread is led out at or near one end of the shuttle. Hence the said point of delivery is contiguous to the goods when the shuttle is 'in one box, and distant the entire length of the shuttle (which equals the width of the goods) when the shuttle is in the other box. In weaving all across the fabric the filling-thread is given out but little as the shuttle moves in one direction, but when it moves in the other direction the filling-thread is drawn out during almost the entire travel of the shuttle; or, in other words, when the shuttle is in one box there i-s nearly as much filling-thread drawn out as is required at the next throw of the shuttle, and when the shuttle is in the other box there is only a short length of weft reaching from the end of the shuttle, contiguous to the cloth, to the selvage.

We will now suppose that a gusset or gore is to be woven on the left side of the fabric. The llingthread passes out at the left end, g, of the shuttle. There is therefore as much length of thread between g and t' as the width ofthe fabric. Hence when the shuttle is thrown into the box ef the thread is not drawn out of the shuttle, but as the shuttle is thrown back into the box c d the thread is drawn out a length corresponding to the distance 'i j, and the gusset-selvage is formed at the points i and j without slack thread being left at either point; and it will be apparent that there would not be any slack lling-thread left at either selvage of the gusset, whether the warp vdetained said filling only at the very edge, or whethrr the weaving extended entirely across the fabric.

When gores or gussets are to be woven on the right side of the fabric, the weft-thread is to be passed out at the right end, h, of the shuttle from a bobbin introduced in the mortise at that end, or the shuttle itself might be turned over to bring the point of delivery of one direction shall cause little or no thread to the thread at the end h. unroll from the bobbn7 for the purposes and What I claim, and desire to secure by Letas speeied. A v ters Patent7 is- In Witness whereof I have hereunto set my A lay and shuttle-boxes formed substansignature this 9th day of April, 1862. f tia-ily as speoied,in combination Withashuttle B. J. GOULLIOUD. that delivers its thread at or near one end, and Witnesses: is in length about one-third of the breadth of ALBERT KOCH, the lay, whereby the shuttle when thrown in GEO. BUTTON. 1 

